Heat Pump Not Heating in Orinda
Orinda is hillside custom-home country, a lot of mid-century builds on grade-separated lots, and the heat pumps here are often conversions off older gas systems. When one stops heating, the diagnosis is the same as anywhere, but the access isn't. The outdoor unit might sit on a slope, tucked behind landscaping, or up against framing that has decades on it. We scope that before we start so the estimate reflects the real work.
The failures themselves are ordinary. A reversing valve stuck in cooling. A slow refrigerant leak through aging line-set joints. A defrost control that quit, or backup heat that won't engage on a ducted conversion. Sheltered from the bay breezes, Orinda runs warmer in summer and cool in winter, and that cool winter is well inside a heat pump's comfortable operating range.
So a no-heat call is a part to find, not the climate beating the equipment. We tell you which part, what the repair costs, and on these hillside lots whether access adds time. All of it goes on the written estimate before any work begins.
Common causes
Reversing valve stuck in cooling mode. If the unit runs but the air stays cool during a heat call, the reversing valve isn't switching to heating. The solenoid coil is the common failure and a clean replacement; a seized valve body is more involved. We confirm with line-temperature readings before we quote, and factor hillside access into the labor.
Refrigerant leak through aging line sets. Line sets routed through decades-old hillside framing develop slow leaks at the flare joints. Low charge cuts heating first. We pressure-test, locate the leak, repair the joint, and weigh in a correct charge. On harder runs we tell you up front if the routing complicates the repair.
Defrost control or sensor failure. Orinda's cool, damp winter mornings frost the outdoor coil. A failed defrost board or sensor lets frost build into ice and kills heating output. We watch a defrost cycle, check sensor resistance, and replace the part that's out of spec.
Backup heat not engaging. Ducted conversions usually carry electric backup strips. When the heat-pump stage is down and the strips don't pick up, you get cold air. We verify thermostat staging, the strip relays, and the sequencer so the backup actually carries the load while we sort the main fault.
Capacitor or contactor wear. A no-start or humming outdoor unit usually traces to a weak run capacitor or a pitted contactor. Both are standard wear parts we meter and replace on the spot, once we've reached the unit on the lot.
How we diagnose it
- Confirm the heat call at the thermostat and observe whether the outdoor unit starts.
- Scope outdoor-unit access on the lot, slope, landscaping, and framing, before quoting labor.
- Read line temperatures and pressures to separate a charge problem from a reversing-valve problem.
- Run a defrost cycle and check the board and sensor against spec.
- On ducted conversions, verify backup-heat staging so the home stays warm during diagnosis.
$75 diagnostic, credited toward any repair over $200. You get a written quote before any work begins.
Heat Pump Not Heating in Orinda: common questions
Will you come up to the harder-to-reach Orinda lots?
Does the hillside access make a heat pump repair more expensive?
Is Orinda's winter cold enough to stop a heat pump from heating?
Nearby and related
Heat Pump Not Heating near Orinda: Lafayette · Moraga .
This is usually a heat pump installation & service in Orinda job. See our heat pump installation & service overview or the Orinda service area.
Heat Pump Not Heating in Orinda
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